The kitchen sink sees a lot of action: washing hands, filling glasses and pots, rinsing produce, and doing dishes. As a result, a clog, a leaky faucet or drain, or another issue can cause significant disruption to your daily life.
There are numerous ways in which a kitchen sink can fail, and at least as many ways in which it can be repaired. While some will require the expertise of a plumber, you can handle the majority of common issues on your own.
You can even resolve the issue by ripping out the sink and starting over!
How to Fix Kitchen sink with Method 1: Drain Unclogging
1. Bail out any water that has accumulated in the sink.
Before beginning your drain unclogging efforts, fill a cup or ladle with water.
If you have a shop vac, removing the water will be much easier. Oftentimes, you may even be able to unclog the drain by sucking out the water while holding the nozzle close to the drain.
Before proceeding if you have a garbage disposal, ensure that it is not the source of the clog.
2. Fill the drain with baking soda and vinegar.
This combination is ideal for creating volcanoes in science experiments, and those same reactive properties can be used to dislodge a clog.
Begin by sprinkling 1 cup (225 g) baking soda into the mixture. If necessary, use a rubber spatula to assist in pushing it down.
Following that, pour 1 cup (250 mL) white vinegar down the drain. Insert the stopper into the drain opening to force the mixture downward. If you have a double sink, close both openings.
3. Fill the drain with boiling water.
Boil 4 cups (1 liter) of water for at least 5 minutes while the baking soda and vinegar do their work. Then quickly pour the water down the drain.
If necessary, repeat the entire procedure. To increase the effectiveness of your boiling water, dissolve salt in it.
4. Fill the sink halfway with hot water.
If you haven’t already, bail out any cold, backed-up water.
5. Align a plunger horizontally across the drain opening.
Create an effective seal. While your toilet plunger will function, you may wish to consider its origins and purchase a kitchen-specific plunger.
If you have a double sink, use a wet rag to plug the other side. Alternatively, you can repeat the procedure on both sides using two plungers, a friend, or both of your hands holding a plunger.
6. Raise and lower the plunger.
Be vigorous, but avoid lifting the plunger off the bottom of the sink and breaking the seal.
If the hot water slowly drains away as you work, replenish it. Continue plunging until the drain is clear or you decide to try a different method.
7. Disconnect the drain pipe to facilitate the use of the cable auger.
Additionally referred to as a plumber’s (or pipe) snake, a cable auger will spin and extend deep into the pipe before retracting and removing any clogs.
For optimal results, you should first disconnect the drain pipe beneath your sink.
Loosen the nuts that connect the drainpipe to the sink drain, including the curved trap, near the wall or floor.
For PVC connections, use your hands; for metal connections, use a pipe wrench. Place a bucket beneath the drainpipe to collect any leaking water.
8. Inspect the removed section of the drain pipe for clogs.
They can be manually removed with gloved fingers or with the aid of simple tools such as a bent clothes hanger or a length of flexible tubing.
9. Expand and retract the auger as necessary to clear any clogs.
Introduce the auger into the pipe opening in the wall or floor. Extend and retract the auger according to the specific product instructions.
10. Securely reattach the drain pipe.
Then inspect for leaks and insufficient drainage. If you continue to have sink issues, contact a professional.
How to Fix Kitchen sink with Method 2: How to Repair a Leaky Drain
1. Inspect the connections of the drain pipe.
If you are unable to locate the source of the leak, while the water is running, press a clean tissue around each drain pipe connection in your under-sink cabinet.
If you identify the culprit, try firmly but not excessively tightening the connection, either by hand for PVC nuts or with a wrench for metal nuts.
If that does not work, try disconnecting and reconnecting the pipes and/or nuts, as well as possibly replacing them.
If you have rusted metal drain pipes, they should be replaced. Check for leaks in rusted areas, as this is frequently where they are discovered.
2. Check for leaks in the sink strainer.
Plug the sink, fill it with water, and wait 5-10 minutes if the drainpipe is not leaking. Circumferentially run a clean tissue around the underside of the sink, where it meets the metal sink drain, also called a sink strainer.
3. Identify your sink strainer and the connectors that attach to it.
From above and below, the metal sink strainer utilizes pressure connections to create a watertight seal around the sink opening.
Sink strainers are classified into three types: locknut, locknut with screws, and ball washer. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions or online resources to determine the type of strainer and the locknut or bell housing that secures it.
4. Tighten the sink strainer connectors that you identified previously.
If the locknut or bell housing feels a little loose, tighten it securely but not excessively and check to see if the leak is stopped. Typically, however, a faulty plumber’s putty seal is to blame, necessitating the removal of the sink strainer.
If you have a very small leak, you may be able to repair it by applying clear silicone around the entire connection between the strainer and the sink.
5. Remove the strainer from the sink if it is still leaking.
After unscrewing the locknut or bell housing that secures the strainer from below, press upward on the sink strainer to lift it out of the sink. If it requires additional encouragement, tap it with a rubber mallet.
Remove any remnants of the plumber’s putty from the rim of the sink opening.
6. Install a new strainer in the sink.
Form a ring of new plumber’s putty with a diameter of half an inch to fit around the clean, dry rim of the sink opening.
Firmly press the new sink strainer into the plumber’s putty and tighten the locknut or bell housing from below according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
With your fingers, a plastic putty knife, and a wet rag, scrape away excess putty in the sink.
Fill the sink once more, wait several minutes, and then dab a tissue around the connections.
How to Fix Kitchen sink with Method 3: Removing and Replacing the Entire Sink
1. Empty the cabinet beneath the sink and turn off the water.
Prior to removing the old sink, empty the cabinet beneath it of all cleaning bottles, buckets, pots and pans, and whatever else is stored there.
To absorb excess water, drape old towels over the bottom of the cabinet. Close the hot and cold water lines by clockwise twisting the cabinet valves, then open the faucet to drain the lines.
Before you begin loosening any pipes or supply lines, turn off the garbage disposal’s power at the main breaker panel.
2. Unplug the drain pipe.
The metal sink strainer will connect to the metal or PVC drain pipe a few inches below the underside of the sink. Remove the connecting nut, either by hand (for PVC nuts) or with a wrench (for metal).
If you have a double sink, there will be two of these connections.
3. Remove the hot and cold water supply lines.
These are the flexible metal tubes that run from the shut-off valve to the faucet’s underside. To disconnect them, use a wrench to loosen the nut above each valve.
4. If you’re reusing the garbage disposal, disconnect it.
The disposal is connected to the sink in a variety of ways, depending on the brand and type.
If you require assistance, consult your product’s instructions or contact the manufacturer. Typically, the disposal is connected to the drain line via a screw or nut.
Unplug the disposal, or disconnect the electrical wiring if it is hard-wired, to completely remove it. You may also choose to store it in the cabinet’s bottom drawer until it’s time to reinstall.
5. Cut a hole through the caulk that surrounds a top-mount sink.
If your sink is secured in place by a metal lip around its edge, it is a top-mount sink. Cut through the caulk with a utility knife around the perimeter. Proceed with caution if you are not also replacing the countertop.
6. Remove the brackets beneath the sink if it is an under-mount sink.
If your sink does not have a lip that rests on the countertop, it is an under mount sink that is secured to the countertop from below via a series of brackets or clips.
To begin, carefully cut through the caulk seal around the top of the sink basin, where it meets the countertop, with your utility knife.
How to Fix Kitchen sink with Method 4: Removing and Replacing the Entire Sink
1. Empty the cabinet beneath the sink and turn off the water.
Prior to removing the old sink, empty the cabinet beneath it of all cleaning bottles, buckets, pots and pans, and whatever else is stored there.
To absorb excess water, drape old towels over the bottom of the cabinet. Close the hot and cold water lines by clockwise twisting the cabinet valves, then open the faucet to drain the lines.
Before you begin loosening any pipes or supply lines, turn off the garbage disposal’s power at the main breaker panel.
2. Unplug the drain pipe.
The metal sink strainer will connect to the metal or PVC drain pipe a few inches below the underside of the sink.
Remove the connecting nut, either by hand (for PVC nuts) or with a wrench (for metal). If you have a double sink, there will be two of these connections.
3. Remove the hot and cold water supply lines.
These are the flexible metal tubes that run from the shut-off valve to the faucet’s underside. To disconnect them, use a wrench to loosen the nut above each valve.
4. If you’re reusing the garbage disposal, disconnect it.
The disposal is connected to the sink in a variety of ways, depending on the brand and type.
If you require assistance, consult your product’s instructions or contact the manufacturer. Typically, the disposal is connected to the drain line via a screw or nut.
Unplug the disposal, or disconnect the electrical wiring if it is hard-wired, to completely remove it. You may also choose to store it in the cabinet’s bottom drawer until it’s time to reinstall.
5. Cut a hole through the caulk that surrounds a top-mount sink.
If your sink is secured in place by a metal lip around its edge, it is a top-mount sink. Cut through the caulk with a utility knife around the perimeter. Proceed with caution if you are not also replacing the countertop.
6. Remove the brackets beneath the sink if it is an under-mount sink.
If your sink does not have a lip that rests on the countertop, it is an under-mount sink that is secured to the countertop from below via a series of brackets or clips.
To begin, carefully cut through the caulk seal around the top of the sink basin, where it meets the countertop, with your utility knife. Remove all clips or brackets with a screwdriver.
To remove an undermount sink, you’ll need a second pair of hands to prop the sink up while you remove the clips. Collaborate with a friend or put your teen to work!
When installing an undermount sink in granite countertops, epoxy may be used to secure it. In this case, ensure that the sink is supported by wood braces beneath it and use a linoleum knife to cut the epoxy where the sink meets the countertop.
If this proves impossible, a heat gun may be used to soften it.
7. Push up from beneath the sink to remove it.
Allow your assistant to push up from below while you grab and lift from above when performing an undermount. To fit the sink through the opening, you’ll need to twist and contort it slightly.
If the opening to your sink cabinet is large enough, you may be able to pull the sink out from underneath instead. While you can pop up a top-mount sink and lift it out on your own, this is much easier with assistance.
8. Clean the countertop area immediately surrounding the sink opening.
After removing the old sink, scrape away any caulk residue around the rim of the opening with a razor blade or putty knife.
Clean the de-caulked countertop with a mild soap and water solution and allow it to dry completely before installing the new sink.
If you’re keeping the countertops, exercise extreme caution with the blade or knife — if you’re not, don’t worry!
9. Replace the sink with a new one.
In essence, you’ll be reversing the removal process: applying a caulk seal, dropping or lifting the sink into place, tightening any clips or brackets, and reconnecting all water, drain, and electrical connections.
However, you will be responsible for installing a new faucet. However, with the product instructions and a little help from wikiHow, you’ll be set!
Similarly, you’ll almost certainly need to replace your sink strainer, but you can handle that as well! Rainer, but you can handle that as well!
Read more:
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Top 9 Best Undermount Kitchen Sinks: Tips & Guide to buying 2021
